Naples in Italy

Naples

Ercolano (Herculaneum)

Mount Vesuvius

Positano

Castellammare di Stabia

Amalfi Town

I have to say that flying towards Italy was an experience itself. We had beautiful views from our plane on the Alps and arriving in Naples we also had a good view on the islands around Naples (for example Capri). It was a bright day so you could see a lot from the plane.

Wandered through the UNESCO-listed historic center, with narrow streets. Football is a big thing here, and Maradona is a God here. I think if you say something bad about Maradona you won't make it out of the city alive. His face is somewhat everywhere in the city. Tried authentic Neapolitan pizza (you cannot believe how different it is from anything else), and got pleasantly lost in narrow streets where every corner has a shrine or a workshop. The city is gritty but absolutely alive. One thing: They drive crazy. I have never seen a place where they drive this f*cked. Red lights are not a thing so be ready to play crossy road.

Drove out to Positano, the most iconic Amalfi Coast village with colorful houses cascading down to the sea. It's exactly as photogenic as the photos suggest, but also exactly as crowded. Walked the steep stepped streets, swam in the small beach below the church. Expensive but worth doing once for the visual experience. Also be aware that the route with bus is full of twists and turns, but worth it. Also when we wanted to go back home the busses were full so we had to take a taxi (which was expensive) so take that in account. Also a part of the beach had lots of stones (no sand) so water shoes would be helpful here.

Skipped Pompeii in favor of Herculaneum and zero regrets. Same eruption (79 AD), but Herculaneum is smaller, better preserved, and far less crowded. You can see wooden details, intact second floors, and even carbonized food that didn't survive at Pompeii. Walking through these ancient streets with the modern town of Ercolano sitting literally on top is cool.

Took the train to Castellammare di Stabia and hiked up Monte Molare in the Lattari mountains. This was the toughest activity of the trip: steep, rocky, and exposed. But the reward at the top is unreal: panoramic views over the entire Bay of Naples, with Vesuvius on one side and the Sorrento peninsula stretching out on the other. Far fewer people here (we were alone on the summit) than the touristy spots, you'll mostly see local hikers. Just take the lift up and go hike here, it's also a bit colder because you are 1000 meters above sea level (and on the summit 1400 meters). I have to say that the summit is a little sketchy sometimes to do, so it's not for everyone. But being at the top is a surreal experience with a crazy view.

Took a day to explore Sorrento. Clifftop town with sweeping bay views, lemon groves, and a more relaxed pace than Naples or Positano. Walked the historic center, watched the sunset from the cliff promenade and explored nice spots to swim. Better connected by train than the Amalfi towns, so easier as a base if you'd want to redo the trip.

Pozzuoli is the underrated cousin of Naples. A coastal town sitting on top of an active volcanic caldera. We did a short hike around the Cratere di Monte Nuovo, a small volcano that erupted in 1538 and created its own crater overnight. Afterwards we hit the beach for a swim. We kept it chill and didn't explore much beyond that, but there's plenty more here if you want it: the Solfatara steam vents, the Roman amphitheater, and excellent seafood at the harbor.

The perfect ending: rented a small boat in Salerno and drove ourselves down the Amalfi Coast from the water. Saw the cliffs and villages from the angle that justifies all the hype. Amalfi town from the sea, Positano framed by cliffs, hidden coves you can only reach by boat. Swam in water so clear you can see the bottom. Renting your own boat is way more affordable than organized tours and gives total freedom. It was really fun.