Madeira in Portugal

Started the trip with the PR8 Vereda da Ponta de São Lourenço, the iconic peninsula hike at the east tip of the island. Even though it was February, it felt like a summer day. The landscape here is wild and Mars-like: red and ochre cliffs, no trees, no shade, and the Atlantic crashing on both sides. Completely different from the green Madeira most people picture.

We drove up to the Fanal Forest in the highlands. A laurel forest that normally feels straight out of a fairytale. Everyone knows the reels, but you can see the vibe for yourself below. The weather was crazy: we had sun yesterday, but up here, all hell broke loose. It’s easily one of the most hectic 'storms' (though normal for this area) I’ve ever experienced. Honestly, it just made it funny. When it's not this windy and rainy, it must be a really peaceful place, but today I felt like I was in Star Wars battling the Clone Wars. Even so, the forest was still a massive vibe with all the rain, mist, and wild wind.

Took a slower day to explore Funchal, our home base for the week. Wandered through the historic old town with its painted doors, looking around and grabbed a poncha (Madeira's signature drink) at a small local bar. We just played games at a bar with friends which was also a nice activity. Funchal isn't huge, but it has a charming colonial feel with the cliffs rising behind it and the Atlantic stretching out in front. A welcome change of pace between hike days.

Took the shorter PR1.2 route from Achada do Teixeira up to Pico Ruivo, Madeira's highest peak at 1862m. The trail is mostly paved and not too long, but the elevation gain hits you. The reward at the top is unreal: you're standing above a sea of clouds with the rest of the island's peaks poking through. One of those views that genuinely doesn't translate to photos.

After the summit, dropped down to Porto da Cruz on the northeast coast. A small fishing village with a dramatic black sand beach and basalt cliffs framing the bay. This was just a random stop, we explored the city a little but didn't do anything specific here. The contrast between standing above the clouds in the morning and watching Atlantic waves crash on volcanic rock in the afternoon is exactly the kind of variety Madeira does so well.

The classic Madeira levada experience. We followed centuries-old irrigation channels through lush rainforest to reach the 25 Fontes (twenty-five springs) and the towering Risco waterfall. The levadas themselves are an engineering wonder: kilometers of hand-built canals dating back to the 17th century, still carrying water from the wet north to the dry south. Think moss-covered cliffs, hidden tunnels, and waterfalls everywhere. This is an absolute must-see. When we were there, there was almost no one around, which made it so much better. On our way back to the car, it started raining, which is probably why it was so quiet. We also started the hike around 16:00, so we got lucky and had the place to ourselves. It truly felt like being deep in a forest with no civilization around. Some of us took a swim at the waterfall, but it was freezing, so I stayed on dry land. Seriously, the low clouds and the lack of people made it a much better experience.

We started early at Pico do Arieiro (1818m) to tackle part of the iconic PR1 ridge trail, arguably the most dramatic hike on Madeira. The path runs along an exposed ridgeline with peaks dropping away steeply on both sides. Because we arrived around noon, it was a lot busier than the mystic forest we visited yesterday. It makes sense, though, as this is one of the most visited spots on the island. That said, the views are absolutely insane. It’s one of the most photogenic hikes I’ve ever done in Europe. Unfortunately, we couldn't complete the full PR1 hike because the main path was closed. The trail has been undergoing massive safety repairs after recent landslides and wildfires, meaning it's often closed on weekdays for maintenance. Also, a heads-up if you're planning to go: the trail has recently become a strict one-way route from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo to prevent dangerous bottlenecks. If you get the chance to do the full thing on an open day, I highly suggest you go for it. Just make sure to book your time slot in advance! Also, keep in mind that this is a pretty intense hike with a lot of elevation gain and steep stairs, so definitely come prepared (if you can do the whole PR 1).

After the noon hike, swapped hiking boots for the driver's seat and took the scenic roads across the interior. You gotta enjoy the rides here because the view is unbelievable. Madeira's coastal roads are something else: tunnels through mountains, hairpin bends with sea views and viewpoints around every corner. Stopped for a karting session somewhere along the way, which was the perfect adrenaline contrast after a peaceful sunrise on the ridge. Also the karting was in a valley which made it so much cooler (Kartódromo do Faial). We saw it while driving to PR 1.2 a couple of days before so we had to do it.

Closed out the trip at the volcanic natural pools of Seixal on the north coast. These are lava-formed basins filled with Atlantic seawater surrounded by jet-black volcanic rock with waves crashing just meters away. The water was cold but refreshing after a full day of hiking and driving. Much quieter and more authentic than the famous Porto Moniz pools. You see massive waves coming towards you which is epic, but I'm not going to lie if you swim too close to the edge and the sea takes you with it you will probably die. The sea is kinda wild over here.